A Travellerspoint blog

Laundry Service

sunny 95 °F

Dropped off at 9 am, picked up at 3 pm. Same day service, neatly pressed and folded. Maybe they'd like to come back with me when I go home?


Posted by elefantstn 13:34 Archived in Mexico Tagged postcards Comments (1)

More Food

sunny 75 °F

It's not that all I do is eat, it just makes for nicer photos.

For dinner tonight I headed back to Parque Santiago to try another of the outdoor market stalls.


I'm working my way through the Yucatecan culinary encyclopedia. On tonight's menu, sopa de lima and salbutes. The former is literally 'lime soup' -- it's a turkey broth with turkey and tortilla strips and copious amounts of sliced lima, a kind of local lime-ish fruit with more of a bumpy exterior and sweeter flavor. Basically tortilla soup with extra citrus, no doubt good for colds.

The salbutes are like the previously-mentioned panuchos, but without the bean stuffing. Fresh-made tortilla fried until it puffs up, then topped in this case with chicken, lettuce, tomato, and pickled onions (the purple strips).


Yesterday I mentioned tacos al pastor, the Lebanese-influenced taco method. I snapped a photo of a spit in action tonight.


At the top, pieces of pork are threaded onto a skewer and pressed down onto each other to make a sort of cylinder, then the meat is shaved off with a long knife as it's cooked on the outside. At the bottom is a pineapple, which cooks at the same time as the meat and also soaks up some of the spicy runoff from above -- the cook lops off a little piece to go on each taco.

Posted by elefantstn 19:15 Archived in Mexico Tagged food Comments (1)

Domingo en Mérida

sunny 95 °F

Every Sunday, the city shuts down the city center to traffic and fills the parks and streets with bands and vendors, of both art and food. I walked down late this morning to catch some of the action.

A band plays, with a dance group in the background:


My lunch, from Taco Jhovany:


A few hours later, I went back and snapped this photo of the cathedral at dusk:


And dinner, sort of -- freshly-fried churros:


Posted by elefantstn 17:05 Archived in Mexico Tagged postcards Comments (4)


80 °F

Home tonight after my beach trip, I headed out for a walk and a quick nighttime snack. Back at Parque Santiago (home of the outdoor dancing memorialized below in video), I found a tiny stand around the back of the market where a couple was hand-making and frying over a charcoal brazier panuchos, a Yucatecan antojito specialty.

When you make a tortilla, it puffs up like a pita as it cooks. To make panuchos, you get it while still puffed up, cut it open at the side, and stuff it with refried beans, then quickly fry it. Once out of the oil, you top it with meat, vegetables, salsa, etc. Mine tonight came with chicken, onion and tomato:


The extra turn in the fryer gives it a texture similar to a hard-shell taco like you might have in the US, but thicker and (of course) a lot better.

For dessert -- a marquesita with cajeta at another stand in the same park. It's like a crepe made out of waffle batter, stuffed with caramel. Kind of messy, but worth it.

Posted by elefantstn 19:32 Archived in Mexico Tagged food Comments (0)

Day at the Beach

sunny 80 °F

I hopped the Mérida-Progreso bus this morning to get in some beach time in Progreso, about 20 miles north on the Gulf of Mexico.


On days without cruise ships (like today), it's almost entirely filled with Mexican, rather than American or Canadian, day trippers -- mostly families looking to escape the heat in the interior. A good place for it, too -- while it was nearly 100F in Mérida today, it was an even 80ish with a stiff breeze in Progreso.

I found a promising-looking cabana-equipped restaurant to sit and read (A Nation of Enemies, Christmas present from my parents). A waiter found me, described the specials, and got this:


A mixed seafood cocktail with a Montejo michelada. The cocktail comes with lime, cilantro, onions, pico de gallo, and two different hot sauces to mix up to your liking, plus chips and crackers to eat it with. The michelada is a glass with ice, lime juice, worcestershire sauce, and hot sauce, rimmed with salt, into which you pour your beer. Tastes better than it sounds, I think.

Posted by elefantstn 19:26 Archived in Mexico Tagged postcards Comments (0)

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